Roussillon (France)

Spring is here (sort of) and it’s time to take thinks in a lighter direction. This month we travel to Roussillon in the South of France, where the wines are fresh, crisp, and less powerful that some of what we’ve enjoyed these past few months. Remember those big, bold reds from Catalonia? We won’t be doing that this month. For April we’ve selected a range of wines you’ll want to take with you outside on a picnic, or to your patio, or anywhere the Spring air is warm and fresh.

Meet Roussillon

Largely unknown outside France for some time, Roussillon is attracting the interest of sommeliers and wine enthusiasts across the world. With a distinctive range of micro-terroirs, exceptional fruit from old vines, and well-established viticultural know-how, there are many factors which make this southern French region so compelling.

Innovative and creative winemakers—many of whom focus on creating organic and biodynamic wines—are bringing a new vigor to the region. Roussillon offers a tantalizing selection of dry white, rosé, and red wines at great value, and is particularly renowned for its world-class vins doux naturels, or fortified sweet wines. Roussillon also leads in its commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture, possessing the highest percentage of organic and biodynamic vineyards in the country.

Geography

Roussillon is characterized by a diversity of wines & terroirs. It is shaped like an amphitheater, with its long, curved Mediterranean coastline stretching from the Pyrenees to the Corbières Mountains. With an average of 325 days of sunshine a year, it’s France’s driest and hottest region. In Roussillon, the summers are hot; autumns and winters tend to be mild. Rainfall accumulates primarily in the autumn and early spring. The region’s unique geology and microclimates allows each of the 24 authorized grape varieties to reach its fullest expression in these soils. 

History

As s the case with some of the other areas we’ve explored, the viticulture of Roussillon was established by the Greeks in the 7th century BC. At that time, Greek traders from Corinth were involved in a profitable trade in iron, and when they settled in Côte Vermeille (near the border with Spain), they brought vines from Greece.

In what should be a now-familiar progression, Roussillon’s viticulture was further developed by the Romans, who expanded into the Narbonnaise, one of the four provinces of Roman Gaul, which became the main trading hub for wine and remained so for many years.

From the 13th century onward, trade in Roussillon wines turned toward Catalonia to the south, and also to Italy in the east. The area was ruled by the Spanish kingdoms of Majorca and Aragón from the 13th through the 17th centuries. The period did not  favor winemaking in Roussillon. Nonetheless, the reputation of Roussillon wines grew with time. Most of the wines exported to the capital were sweet wines—they traveled better, their taste was unique, and their high price made up for transport costs.

Roussillon did not become part of France until 1659. Even today, many people in the area identify themselves as Catalan.

Grape Varieties

17 of the 24 white, gray, and black grape varieties commonly used in Roussillon are authorized for AOP wines. Grenache Noir is the most widely planted grape, followed by Syrah and then Carignan. These grapes play an important role in the region’s dry red AOP and IGP wines. Grenaches (black, white, and grey) are also key varieties in the vins doux naturels of Banyuls, Maury, and Rivesaltes.

Roussillon claims to be the oldest home of Grenache in France, and indeed 38 percent of their production is Grenache. What is fascinating, however, is they specialize in three colors of Grenache: Noir, Blanc, and Gris. From this they produce delicious dry white, red, and rosé wines, as well as their legendary sweet wines.

Côtes du Roussillon red wines must be made with at least three varieties of grapes. The total of the two main variety grapes should not make more than 90% of the blend, and there must not be more than 60% Carignan.

Banyuls is a fortified, dessert wine has been produced since the 13th century in the French region of Roussillon. It is predominantly made from different varieties of Grenache grapes, though Carignan, Muscat (only in small amounts), Macabeu, Mourvedre, and Tourbat can also be used.

AOP dry wines are blends made with a minimum of two or three of the following grapes: Grenache Noir, Grenache Gris, Carignan Noir, Carignan Blanc, Cinsault, Lledoner Pelut, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Malvoisie du Roussillon, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino, and Viognier.

AOP fortified sweet wines can be blends or single-varietal wines made from Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu, Malvoisie du Roussillon, Muscat à Petits Grains, and Muscat d’Alexandrie. Carignan Noir and Syrah may also be used as complementary grape varieties.

Looking Ahead

Long thought of as a source of high-end vins doux naturel (VDN) sweet wines, Roussillon is becoming more and more known for it’s excellent dry wines. Exports continue to grow year after year as global markets–particularly the US–continue to ask for more its wines, many of which pair well with many of the world’s most popular cuisines, including French, Italian, American, and Asian. Investments made by foreigners are also helping support quality production and distribution throughout the world of Roussillon wines. The future of Roussillon wine is bright indeed!